Real Cotton Poplin Is a Summer Staple. Here’s How to Find It.


Two images of a person holding cotton poplin fabric.
Cotton poplin (left) can be recognized by its tight weave, which creates a crisp, voluminous fabric. It’s also more opaque than plain-weave cotton (right). Frances Solá-Santiago/NYT Wirecutter

Unfortunately, cotton poplin is so versatile and suited to summer wear that some companies market their clothes misleadingly. When shopping, you may come across pieces that pose as cotton poplin but are actually made with synthetics or blends, which are less ideal for hot weather.

Typically, these polyester or cotton-poly blends emulate the look of cotton poplin but don’t have the fabric’s unique properties, such as breathability or its signature crisp texture. Aside from those material differences, some companies describe garments as poplin that don’t even have a tight poplin weave, largely because the term “cotton poplin” has become synonymous with shirting.

So how do you know if what you’re buying is the real deal?

First, if an item is described as poplin, check the garment label or material-composition description to see if it’s made from 100% cotton. If it’s not, the piece might not have the properties you’re looking for.

But you can learn more about clothing by shopping in person, which experts recommend particularly when you’re shopping for cotton poplin. The feel of the fabric can tell you a lot about its weave and quality: Cotton poplin should feel cool, soft, and lightweight against your skin, never heavy or drapey.

To check the poplin weave, experts suggest holding up the fabric under a light source to confirm little-to-no light comes through. Frances Solá Santiago and Jason Toledo/NYT Wirecutter

The weave should also be tight, said Petra Rudolf, a product manager at Oeko-Tex, an organization that tests and certifies textile products for safety and environmental impacts. You can check the weave by holding the fabric up to the light: For most cotton poplin items, light should not easily pass through the fibers of the fabric, though white cotton poplin items might not be fully opaque.

Next time you wonder why that maxi dress or button-up works so well during the summer, chances are, it’s due to the piece’s poplin weave. That weave, paired with cotton fibers, adds up to an investment-worthy material that you can wear year-round.

This article was edited by Hannah Rimm and Katie Okamoto.



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