Repeat After Me: Aquaphor Is Not a Moisturizer.

If you’ve scrolled skin-care TikTok lately, you’ve probably seen people gleefully slathering Aquaphor on their faces before bed. The practice, nicknamed “slugging,” has been trending for years. (But, it’s far from new. Many Black women and other communities have had petroleum jelly in their skin-care routines for generations.) One viral video with nearly 6 million views shows a creator coating their face, saying it’s the way to wake up to “reborn skin.” Another encourages you to finish your nighttime routine with Vaseline. But the word occlusive keeps getting tossed around as if it’s a type of moisturizer. It’s not.

An occlusive isn’t a product. It’s a type of ingredient. Common examples include petroleum jelly, mineral oil, beeswax, shea butter, and dimethicone. They don’t add hydration in the way humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerin do, and they don’t soften skin the way emollients like ceramides or plant oils do.

Instead, you can think of it as the cling wrap of skin care. “An occlusive forms a physical barrier on the skin’s surface to prevent water loss,” dermatologist Adam Mamelak, MD, explained. It locks in what’s already there and makes it harder for bacteria to reach the skin, which is why dermatologist Tanya Kormeili, MD, said she recommends layering on an occlusive after getting a tattoo, surgery, or any treatment that leaves your skin vulnerable.

“It’s not repairing the skin,” said dermatologist Maryam Safaee, MD. “It’s just a temporary bandage to enable the healing process, but you still need to use barrier-repairing ingredients like ceramides and fatty acids.” A thin layer of Vaseline on cracked cuticles, dry lips, or a healing patch of eczema? Perfect. A full-face slugging session (preceded by a moisturizer) once in a while when your skin feels desert-dry? Also fine, if your skin type allows it.

But if your skin is already parched, adding an occlusive on top is like sealing an empty Tupperware container. There’s nothing inside to keep fresh. Plus, its ability to seal in things on your skin can backfire, too, especially if you’re using it regularly. “Overdoing it can stop sweat from evaporating, lead to overheating, or even disrupt natural skin cell turnover,” Safaee warned. Even though Vaseline is technically non-comedogenic, its seal can still lock in particles that are pore-clogging, like sweat, sebum, and bacteria. For acne-prone or oily skin, that can create a breeding ground for breakouts or folliculitis.

With this no-frills moisturizer, you’ll hydrate without any irritation.

An occlusive on its own is great at locking things in, but the reality is that a good, “normal” daily moisturizer usually has a mix of occlusive, humectant, and emollient ingredients that all work together to hydrate and support the skin. That’s true of the Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer and the CeraVe Moisturizing Cream, which are both recommended in our guide to the best moisturizers. So you’re getting the sealing finish of an occlusive, along with the hydration that you want to lock-in.

A thick cream for all-day moisture, this is best for dry skin.

And not all occlusive ingredients are created equal, which is why Mamelak said if you have oily or acne-prone skin, you should choose moisturizers with lightweight occlusives like dimethicone or squalane. Eczema-prone skin or post-procedure skin benefits most from ointments with heavy hitters like petrolatum.

So despite what social media might say, occlusives aren’t moisturizers, but they can play a role in your routine if used correctly. Think of an occlusive as a temporary bandage — helpful when your skin needs extra TLC, but not necessarily the main event for everyday hydration. If you’re dry, layer an occlusive over your humectant-rich serum or moisturizer every so often. If you’re oily, stick to a lighter version, or skip it entirely. And the next time TikTok makes it look like Vaseline is a miracle cure-all, just remember that it’s only as good as what’s underneath.

This article was edited by Hannah Rimm and Maxine Builder.