Your Suit Probably Needs to Be Tailored. Here’s How It Works.

There’s a lot a tailor can do to make a suit fit you better. But a tailor cannot fix a garment that, at its core, is the wrong size or cut for your body. “If you don’t get the initial fit right, you’re never going to — no matter how much money you pour into it,” explains Michael B. Dougherty, a writer and marketing and creative consultant to menswear brands.

Minor alterations

Here are some of the most common (and easily fixable) issues, as well as their estimated costs. (Prices can vary widely, depending on the tailor and location.)

Problem: sloppy sleeves

Even a well-fitting, off-the-rack jacket will likely require some small sleeve adjustments. Sleeves can be lengthened or shortened; they can also be taken in (made narrower) or let out (made wider). The amount they can be let out depends on the amount of leftover fabric at the seams.

As a rule of thumb, jacket sleeves should come down to around the wrist bone, leaving a small strip (a quarter-inch) of shirt visible. Width-wise, the sleeves should drape naturally without restricting movement (too tight) or excess fabric bunching up (too loose).

Ballpark cost: $65 to adjust the sleeve length, $45 to change the width

Problem: non-functioning button holes on the jacket sleeve

Most off-the-rack suits come with non-working button holes, though a tailor can make them functional. This is simply a matter of preference: Some people like to wear a button or two undone. Once upon a time, functioning button holes were a signifier of an expensive suit, and today they still represent craftsmanship or attention to detail.

Ballpark cost: $100 to $150

Problem: an ill-fitting jacket waist

For most suit jackets, an hourglass shape is the ideal silhouette. The waist of a jacket can be taken in or let out to achieve that shape and provide more room to move (if necessary). It’s not a difficult job for a tailor, but it is time-consuming.

Ballpark cost: $85

Problem: a pant waist that’s too tight or too loose

The objective is a waistband that’s snug but not tight; you should be able to comfortably slip two fingers into the waistband. (If you can’t fit two fingers, the waistband is too tight, and if you can fit more than two, it’s too loose.) This is simple for a tailor to fix, as long as the adjustment doesn’t exceed about 2 inches; any more than that could affect the pockets or throw off the pants’ proportions.

Ballpark cost: $45

Problem: a seat that doesn’t look right

The pants’ seat can be taken in or let out to achieve a good drape. There should be no bunching of fabric or flaring at the pockets. Check that there’s enough space in the hips, rear, and upper leg to allow you to take long steps and sit down without straining the fabric.

Ballpark cost: $40

Problem: pant legs that are too wide or too narrow

If pant legs are slightly too wide or too narrow for you, a tailor can easily take them in or let them out. (Most suit pants have extra fabric in the side seam to allow for this.) The goal here is not a design overhaul. Instead, it’s to make adjustments for your body and for comfort. (For example, don’t attempt to turn a pair of relaxed suit trousers into a skinny style.)

Ballpark cost: $50

Problem: unfinished pant hems

Many suits come with unfinished hems, and the “right” length is another matter of preference. For example, I have some suits that I think call for a shorter, jauntier length. Pants can be hemmed to have either a full break, a half-break, a quarter-break, or no break; these break distinctions refer to how much the hem folds over your shoes while you’re standing. With a full break, there’s a substantial fold of fabric resting on the shoe; with a half-break, there’s a slight fold; with a quarter-break, there’s just a slight crease (and minimal contact with the shoe); and with no break, the hem doesn’t touch the shoe at all. If you’re not sure what to choose, ask your tailor for input.

Ballpark cost: $30

Problem: to cuff or not to cuff

With suit pants, the hem can either be sewn with a clean, flat finish or cuffed. There’s no rule about which style is best. Cuffs’ popularity changes with the times; right now, cuffs are in. (Your tailor can offer input on this decision.) One advantage of a cuff is that it adds weight to the pant leg and creates a cleaner drape. Ferruccio Romanelli, manager of the tailoring shop at the Sid Mashburn store in Manhattan, recommends a cuff length of about 1.75 inches for taller men and about 1 to 1.5 inches for those who are shorter.

Ballpark cost: $35

Risky alterations (proceed with caution)

If you’ve bought a new suit that really doesn’t fit, you’re better off trying to return, exchange, or even resell it, versus trying to work a tailoring miracle.

Alterations that go beyond what’s described in the previous section are possible, but we don’t recommend them; they’re akin to major surgery. (They also cost more and have more uncertain results.) They’re worth considering only as a Hail Mary pass — if, say, you have a great vintage piece you want to try to salvage — but proceed at your own risk.

Some examples:

• Adjusting the jacket length: Generally speaking, a suit jacket should cover the seat of the pants and end around the middle of your hands (when your arms are relaxed at your sides). A tailor can shorten a jacket, but not more than a half-inch or an inch. It’s not a straightforward job, “not if they want to do it well,” says Wirecutter style writer Alexander Aciman. And, he adds, taking away more than an inch will make the pockets look strange. (It’s also expensive — up to around $180.) If a jacket is too short, there’s nothing a tailor can do.
• Lowering the collar: The jacket’s collar should hug the back of your neck. If there’s a space between your shirt and the collar, that’s what’s known as a “collar gap.” Fixing it requires removing and restitching the collar. It can be done, but the better solution is likely to swap the jacket for a smaller size.
• Adjusting the shoulder: A jacket should fit snugly and comfortably around the shoulders. It should not extend past them or hug the shoulders so tightly that the shoulder muscle is visible. If the shoulders are wrong, it’s an indicator that you probably have the wrong size jacket (or suit).

This article was edited by Ingela Ratledge Amundson, Jennifer Hunter and Hannah Rimm.